J 26 – New Quality Benchmark for Cotton Yarns

Mrs. Zelaide Soares de Oliveira, Industrial Director of BRASTEX

No claim without proof. In order to test a new yarn spun on Rieter’s air-jet spinning machine J 26, the Rieter customer BRASTEX (Brazil) started a series of trials together with Guararapes Textil, the largest textile and apparel company in Latin America. The result is a consistently high-quality yarn with very low hairiness and a high tenacity (below Uster 5%), which provides the optimal preconditions for knitting.

The Challenge

To develop new high-quality yarns in its product range, BRASTEX got a Rieter air-jet spinning machine J 26 to produce combed cotton air-jet yarn. To test one of these new yarns, BRASTEX started a series of knitting trials together with its customer Guararapes Textil. Guararapes Textil is the largest textile and apparel company in Latin America and is located in São Paulo, Brazil. 

The test was performed using a 100% combed cotton air-jet yarn with a yarn count of Ne 30, spun at BRASTEX on a Rieter air-jet spinning machine J 26. The goals of the trial were to collect data about the running behavior and to gain an impression of the yarn in the fabric. Low hairiness, good abrasion resistance and high yarn evenness are needed for good knitting efficiency and high fabric quality. As regards the appearance in the fabric, Guararapes Textil sets strict criteria for the yarn it consumes:

1. High pilling resistance and a perfect appearance with no visible flaws 
2. Soft to the touch
3. Bright and long-lasting color

The Yarn Production Process

BRASTEX is able to produce its air-jet yarns in a short and efficient process. After the blowroom, carding, non autoleveler draw frame and combing, the sliver goes through just one autoleveler draw frame passage. During combing the Rieter-comber reaches a combing level of 17%. In the end spinning process the J 26 runs for 24 hours a day at an efficiency of up to 93% with very low soft waste of 3% and hard waste of 0.2%. The result is a consistently high-quality yarn with very low hairiness and a high tenacity (below Uster 5%), which provides the optimal preconditions for knitting. 

The Knitting Process

The trials were carried out in a knitting mill belonging to Guararapes Textil under the guidance of the Head of Knitting and the company’s strict quality conditions. Guararapes reported very smooth running of the air-jet yarn on the knitting machine. The above-mentioned low hairiness and good abrasion resistance lead to considerably reduced dust and fly generation. This means that the knitting machine has long production intervals and that the knitwear is not contaminated with fluff. The fabric samples produced are amazingly soft to the touch, which can only be achieved with the Rieter air-jet system. 

Guararapes Textil is very satisfied with the test results and has decided to continue its research project with air-jet yarns in order to include BRASTEX’s J 26 air-jet yarn as standard for its high-quality products.

Our partnership with Rieter started in 1978. It has been increased over the years. Now we have the pleasure to test the J 26 with very good performance and quality levels - as Rieter machines always do. Mrs. Zelaide Soares de Oliveira, Industrial Director of BRASTEX

About BRASTEX SA

Specializing in the production of cotton yarns for the textile sector, Rieter customer BRASTEX has five industrial units: Two in the city of João Pessoa and three in the municipality of Santa Rita, both of which are located in the state of Paraíba, Brazil. The company produces carded and combed cotton ring yarn using the latest technology and operating with 100 000 spindles. Production is aimed at the consumption of modern weaving and knitwear in the domestic market and for exports. 

Brastex SA

Phone+558321070500

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